Month: June 2011

The Potomac’s golf ball graveyard

With memories of the U.S. Open at Congressional Country Club still fresh, this would be a good time to reveal one of the Potomac River’s least-known secrets.

It has to do with golf balls. Those of us who poke around the river’s shores know that golf balls constitute a small but ubiquitous share of its trash load. But I’m probably the only one that knows a spot in the river that is virtually covered with golf balls.

I won’t say exactly where this spot is, except that it’s within sight of the American Legion Bridge.

Potomac River pearls: sunlight
makes them sparkle with life.

Layers deep. This ultimate rough lies between two rock reefs and measures about 20 feet across. There, golf balls lie in scores, even hundreds, in some places stacked several layers deep. They gleam in the still water, the old ones greenish with algae, new ones shiny white, yellow, and orange. Oddly, this same spot is also a favored resting spot for black walnuts, which look like golf balls imitating shrunken heads.

So here we have two mysteries courtesy of our local trickster, the Potomac River. First, where do all of these golf balls come from? And second, why should they be concentrated in this one spot?

As for the first question, I would presume that they come from golf courses, not only those along the main stem of the Potomac itself, but also ones traversed by streams and creeks that eventually empty into the river itself. In a heavy rain, the runoff picks up trash and debris—plastic drink bottles, old tires, golf balls, everything else—and sweeps it into the nearest watercourse.

As for the second question, the river tends to sort things out and put them where they belong depending on the strength of the current and the properties of the thing being sorted. For example, flood waters deposit bigger, heavier stones closer to their mountain sources and carry the smaller, lighter ones further downstream. Even where the river empties into a bay or the ocean, the sorting continues, with the pebbles deposited first, followed by sand, and finally the tiny grains of silt.

We see this in the Potomac as well. For example, we can find old tires just about anywhere. but in some places they seem to congregate, like otherworldly geological formations.

It seems to be the same with the golf balls. At my spot between the two rocky reefs, flood waters presumably carry the balls over the first rocks. But these same rocks slow the current on their downstream side, thus losing the force to lift the balls up and over the second set of rocks.

And so the balls accumulate, like a giant cup on a putting green with room for all.

In some far off time, some intelligent form of life with a knack for geology might stumble upon this spot and come to the same conclusion I’ve outlined here. But our alien geologist will likely never think that one of those balls might have been hit by Rory McIlroy at this year’s open, perhaps when nobody was looking.

 

Golfballs find the ultimate rough

While memories of the U.S. Open are still fresh, it might be a good time to reveal one of the Potomac River’s little-known secrets.

It has to do with golf balls. Those of us who poke around the river’s shores and explore the crevasses in its rocks know that golf balls make up a small but ubiquitous share of its trash load. You see one here, you see one there.

But one spot in the river is paved with golf balls in such numbers that it looks like a golf ball graveyard. I won’t say exactly where it is except that it’s within sight of the American Legion Bridge.

The golf balls lie in a rock hollow between two ledges that are about 20 feet apart. They gleam in the sunlit water, the old ones greenish with algae, new ones shiny white, yellow, and orange. This same spot is also a favored resting place for black walnuts, which look like golf balls that have been shrunk and cured by Jívaro Indians.

A twin mystery. It could very well be the work of our local trickster, the Potomac River. The audience admires its display of slight of hand, but then wants answers: Where do all of these golf balls come from? And why should they be in this one spot?

The golf balls keep company
with the usual trash assortment.

As for the first question, I would presume that they come from golf courses, not only those bordering the main stem of the river itself, but also ones near streams and creeks. Periodic floods sweep the usual assortment of Potomac trash downstream—Styrofoam cups, old tires, plastic bags and water bottles,  beer cans, children’s toys, golf balls—until it all ends up in the river’s main stem.

As for the question of why so many ended up in this one spot, it might have to do with the river’s tendency to sort things out and put them where they belong. For example, flood waters deposit bigger, heavier stones closer to their mountain sources and carry the smaller, lighter ones further downstream. Where the river empties into a bay or the ocean, the sorting continues, with the sand deposited first, followed by the fine particles of silt.

In the Potomac I’ve seen assemblages of old tires on the river bottom, like stromatolites from the beginning of life on earth. I’ve always thought these were places where the force of the current and the specific gravity of the tires ended in a truce.

I’d imagine it’s similar with the golf balls. A strong current will carry them over the upstream ledge of my golf ball graveyard, but that same ledge slows down the current just enough that the balls drop to the bottom and never make it over the second ledge. That’s my guess. The trickster might know better.

Whichever way, the game of golf now has something even better than a hole in one—a hole for all.

Life and death on a sunfish spawning bed

I won’t tell exactly where the gravel bar is located except that it’s somewhere between Seneca Breaks and Watkins Island on the Potomac River. It looks like any other gravel bar, just a hump of rounded quartzite cobbles capped with a tangle of  knotweed.

This may be my secret gravel bar.
Or maybe it’s not.

What makes this particular gravel bar special is what goes on every spring in the  slack water off its downstream shoreline.

I stopped by a couple of weeks ago for the first time this year. Up until then, the bar had been pounded by weeks of flooding, one storm after another, drowning familiar landmarks in swirls of muddy water and debris. But in late May the river finally calmed down enough that I could get my kayak in the water and check things out.

I slipped my fishing rod out from under the deck and tried a few casts off the side of the bar into the current. I reeled in slowly, feeling the lure bump against the rocks on the bottom. On the second cast, one “rock” wouldn’t let go, and I landed a nice smallmouth bass of maybe 14 inches.

But this wasn’t why I had come to the gravel bar. I pushed through the knotweed to the downstream edge of the little island and cast a little jig into slack water. Immediately something slammed my lure, and a few moments later a redbreast sunfish lay on the weeds by my feet. Next cast I caught another, then a third.

They were small—about the size of my hand—but feisty. And for good reason. They were defending their nests, and they saw my lure as an intruder.

This was their spot. For some reason having to do with the river bottom, the movement of the water, and location, they had chosen this spot as a nesting area. I was an interloper. There was no need to catch any more, particularly after what I had learned just recently.

Bad year for spawning. A few weeks earlier I had attended a meeting of the Potomac Smallmouth Club. The speaker was Jeff Kelbe, Shenandoah Riverkeeper and former fishing guide. His main subject was smallmouth bass, but what he said was equally applicable to sunfish.

Kelbe told the group something that they already knew. “The spawn has been kind of toast this year,” he said.

No sooner had the sunfish and bass built their nests than the next flood wiped everything clean. If the females had not yet released their eggs, they would be reabsorbed into until conditions improve. But if they had already spawned, the eggs and any hatched fry would be washed down the river.

Here we were already at the end of May. Kelbe said the fish might have one last spawning opportunity this season, if the river cooperated. It would be early June or nothing, certainly not later than June 10th.

Someone asked Kelbe for locations of some of the spawning beds. He wouldn’t say, and for good reason as we will see.

Guard duty. As Kelbe explained, fish on their spawning beds will strike any lure that comes their way, making them easy quarry for any fisherman who knows where to go. But there will be a cost.

Spawning season starts with the males scooping out circular depressions in the gravel or sand bottom maybe a foot across. The males attract females to their beds, fertilize their eggs, and then chase the females away. From then on, the males are the first responders in protecting the next generation. Aggressively and unremittingly, they attack anything that poses a threat to the eggs and later to the fry.

Fending off threats is full-time work. Let down your guard, and hungry bystanders—including other sunfish—dart in to grab lunch. The feisty males are effective defenders when the threat is real. But an attack on an intruder made of chartreuse plastic and tipped with a steel hook can be a calamity. The fisherman—maybe a little girl in this case, out for the afternoon with her father—sets the hook and feels the struggling fish on the end of the line. As she reels in, critical seconds go by as one by one the tiny fry disappear into the mouths of hungry opportunists.

The little girl pulls the fish out of the water, and it flops about on the bottom of the boat. Her father tells her to hold it up so he can take a picture. He unhooks and releases the fish. The fish speeds back to the undefended nest perhaps to discover that he has little left to protect.

Bass vs. sunfish.  Of course nature is always more complicated that it looks, particularly when human interests are involved. The meeting where Kelbe spoke was about bass fishing, and the men (and one woman) sitting around me were all bass fishermen. They loved bass and were dedicated to protecting them.

It so happens that a major threat to bass fry are the very sunfish that were the objects of my concern. Therefore, any pressure I put on the sunfish presumably could benefit bass. So I could choose: sunfish or bass? Or I could just walk away from a discussion of ethics that will lead nowhere except which fish I happen to like more.

I checked out the gravel bar four days later. The first thing I saw was that the water had dropped a lot more. It was clearer too, allowing me to see the bottom in some places.

I hauled my kayak up over the knotweed and waded ankle deep off the bar’s downstream side. All around me I could see sunfish nests, their round gravel clearings etched in the silty bottom. There were so many it looked like a heavily cratered part of the moon.

Also like the moon, there was no sign of life. As Kelbe predicted, spawning would be over just about now. I hope it worked out well.